Clifford Coffin ~ Vogue's "lost" photographer

Jean Patchet, Vogue 1949

 Dovima, Vogue 1950

Below is the first photograph I discovered by Clifford Coffin. The color, angles and imagery peaked my interest in the amazing photographer.

 Vogue 1963

Vogue 1950

Photographer Clifford Coffin (1913-1972) is considered by many as the greatest of Vogue’s photographers. He worked for such magazines as Vogue, Glamour and Jardin des Modes in New York, Paris and London.

  

 Jean Patchett

 Evelyn Tripp, 1954

Mr. Coffin covered the couture collections for Vogue two times, 1948 and 1954, and he took one of the few photographs of Christian Dior at his iconic ’New Look’ collection in 1947.

Vogue 1957

Vogue 1952

Chapter One ~ part two ~ What Men like in Women

Another excerpt from "Always ask a Man. Arlene Dahl's Key to Femininity"

Arlene ~ author of "Always ask a Man"

What Men like in Women

    For the past 10 years, I've been writing a syndicated beauty column devoted to making women more beautiful. In order to find out what we can do to make ourselves even more so, I make it a practice to go straight to the most reliable source - MEN!

    I have interviewed hundreds of discerning males on the subject of women and beauty - stars of motion pictures, Broadway and television, statesmen, noblemen,businessmen, and members of international society.

    Their ideals may vary from a languid blond to an elegant gray haired women. They may run the gamut in type from intellectual to athlete, but - without exception - every man put one quality above all others when describing his ideal. That one essential attribute which all men seek and admire in a women is FEMININITY.

    Yul Brynner put it this way "Simple femininity is the most important thing about a woman, and it is this quality a great many women are in jeopardy of losing in this modern age."

This is the most frequent criticism of American women. We are accused of competing with men instead of charming them, of forgetting our essential female appeal in our concentration on careers and equal rights. (WOW)

Yul, however, affirmed his faith in us by adding that he has the greatest confidence in the healthiness of human instincts and is not the slightest bit worried about the fate of the female sex.

    Other pointers that I received from this fascinating star were:

1. Be a good listener. No man enjoys the company of a chatterbox who boasts of her own conquests.
2. Have a style of your own. Find out what is most attractive and comfortable for you and don't be influenced by current fads. It enhances the personality of a woman to be identified with a certain color or a special perfume.
3. Learn to transcend yourself by being interested in other people. 
4. Cultivate common sense.
5. Have a sense of humor. 

"The one thing a women doesn't have to be," laughs Yul, "is logical!" (thanks Yul, you're too kind)

Yul Brynner

 ~~~

I do agree with a lot of what they said but to everyone who says they were born in the wrong time, especially women, you do know you can wear whatever you want now and you have equal rights.  Sorta awesome huh? I will take now, thank you.....though I do think I might have really enjoyed the 70's!

Notes on getting a proper fit when buying vintage online

Vintage clothing tends to fit a bit differently than modern clothing.  It is is cut much closer to the body and for this reason it is essential that you allow enough room to move comfortably while wearing your vintage piece.  I find myself forever telling people "Breathing is important!".  Vintage garments should always be worn with care and consideration of their age.

Mid century clothing was also often designed to accentuate the hourglass figure and as a result you will find the waist lines tend to run small, this waspie figure can be attained with the right foundation garments, ie girdles, spanx and cinchers.  Also if your measurements are off a little bit the situation can often be rectified by having the garment altered to fit you.  Most online vintage stores are happy to answer any questions about available seam allowances, darts, and hem allowances before you purchase.

from Bella Hess catalog, 1940

MEASURING YOURSELF

Use a dressmaker’s tape measure.  You can get one at your local fabric store.
Measure yourself over the undergarments you plan to wear under the vintage piece and not over your clothing.

BUST: measure over the fullest part of your bust while wearing a bra.

UNDERBUST: measure around the fullest part of your ribcage, about midway between your bust and waist.

WAIST: measure around the smallest point of your waist where it curves in.

HIP: measure around the fullest part of your hips. This is usually about 8"-9" below your waist.

SHOULDER TO WAIST: Measure from the top of your shoulder, where a normal shoulder seam would lie, down the front, following the curve of your bust.

LENGTH: measure from the top of your shoulder, where a normal shoulder seam would lie, down the front, to the point you want the garment to end at the hem.

ANOTHER HELPFUL HINT:
You can measure an item in your wardrobe that fits you well and is similar to the item you are wishing to purchase and compare the two.

ALSO
Please remember the measurements in the listings are of the garment not you.  This sounds like common sense but you would be surprised.

xOxO, LollyPOP Vintage

Chapter One ~ part one ~ Always ask a Man

I love the illustraions in this book! The first chapter bears the name of the book "Always ask a man".  It is the start of the Arlene Dahl makeover and it also has a lot of quotes as to what the famous male actors of the day treasured in women.

"It's not very difficult to find out what appeals to a man. All you have to do is ask him" Arlene says.

What one man thinks is usually  a pretty good indicator of what most men will think on a given subject. For instance if the cab driver admires your perfume, you can be pretty sure your dinner date will like it too. (apparently all men are the same or at least super similar)

To develop the kind of appeal that will  attract and intrigue a man:

1. Look at yourself objectively (try to see yourself through a man's eyes)
2. Listen to men (and learn what they like in women)

Step one is important because only then can you know what kind of impression you are making on men.  This is not easy so enlist the aid of a trusted male friend (an uncle, an older brother. Get him to level with you on any unfeminine habits you may have developed. Old habits become old friends and it's hard to discard them.

Ok, this step could be interesting as I am a girl who has always gotten along better with men.  I don't think anyone one would confuse me with a man as I prefer dresses to pants and have a voice that has sometimes been likened to Mini Mouse.  Then, on the other hand, I have won more then a couple burping contests (in my early 20's..I have since retired), drank more men under the table then most and i am actually known for telling more then a couple poor jerks that approached me the wrong way that I don't date men with smaller balls then mine. All of which are, I am told, decidedly unfeminine traits.  Mae West and I probably have more in common then most, if you know what I mean, and I have always cherished my bawdy sense of humor which is also considered "unfeminine".  I have never wanted to be a princess. I am not looking for a man to take care of me. Not so keen on the idea of marriage when it pertains to me. I also am very competitive and like to win at almost anything. All this before I have even spoken to a men about the subject. So already it appears I am working a deficit in this so called femininity department.

Step two has double returns. By listening to men you learn what qualities every Adam is looking for in his Eve (another relationship that turned out so well), and this should be used as a guide to help you become a more appealing female. Incidentally, while you are gathering this important data you are already making a great impression because all men loved to be listened to! See how this works?

The last statement rings true but then I find almost everyone of any sex or age enjoys being listened to.

This ends the first installment of Chapter One so I will leave you with this quote from Arlene

"Blondes may have more fun but redheads never have regrets"

Always ask a Man

 "Women are like snowflakes - there aren't two in the world that are exactly alike" says Arlene Dahl, Internationally known film star and one of the world's loveliest women ~ from inside of the jacket

    So, I have an odd obsession with vintage beauty books. I have quite a collection but this is one of my favorites because it's premise is basically to help you become more attractive to find a man. This advice comes from Arlene Dahl. Who, although beautiful, is currently working on her sixth husband. So apparently she could coach you to get a man but keeping them around may require a different book!
   
    While I do happen to have a man I thought it would be fun to go through these books one at a time a chapter at a time and try most the things they suggest and document the results in this blog. Though I will tell you now I am not eating tongue as she suggests as part of her diet in her "Slim down ~ Measure up" chapter. I don't care if she says it's Sophia  Loren's diet. Not going to happen!

The book was published in 1965.

Her message to the reader....

Dear Reader,

I like men. And i like men to like me so I dress for them.

This I used to consider the normal attitude and approach, one I shared with all women.

Then not long ago a survey showed me the average woman doesn't dress to please men at all! She dresses to please herself or other women....

That fact shocked me into writing this book, "Always Ask a Man".

Most women love to be beautiful (at least the ones who right me for advice do) Millions of dollars, the statisticians tell us are spent yearly at beauty salons, cosmetics counters, gymnasiums and dress shops in women's quest for beauty. But beauty for whom? The girls in the office? The women at the club? How can the world progress if women don't consider men...the Man...first?

I do not believe there is a woman alive who can't achieve some degree of beauty.But comparatively few reach their potential. As a photographer's model and actress, I have learned to make the most of my physical assets. As a beauty columnist, I constantly seek , wherever I travel, new beauty techniques to share with my readers, A lot of talented people have taught me tricks and shared their ideas....and I am eager to pass them on to you.

But before you whittle down your waistline, whip up a new hairdo, or wield a lipstick brush, you must come to the basic understanding as to why you want to be beautiful.

This book is not intended for women who want to be beautiful for beauty's sake. Such beauty serves no purpose....other then self-satisfaction, if that can be considered a purpose. But if you are a women who loves to be beautiful for and be loved by a man, I believe this book can help you.

Whether you are a student, house wife, mother, working girl,or business women, to me your only role that really counts is that of being a exciting feminine women.

yours for beauty,

Arlene Dahl

2009

 Arlene Carol Dahl (born August 11, 1925) is an American actress and former MGM contract star, who achieved notability during the 1950s. She is the mother of actor Lorenzo Lamas.

Lillian Bassman

"In this Year of Lace Dovima", 1951

Evelyn Tripp “Personal Touch,” 1948.

lingerie Ad for Warner's from 1951

 Barbara Mullen, Flat Hat, Bare Back, 1958

  The V back evenings, Suzy Parker, 1955

Carmen Having Tea, 1950

 Woman in Chicken Hat (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), 1948

Lillian Bassman (June 15, 1917 – February 13, 2012) was an American photographer and Painter. Her images are dreamy and timelessly gorgeous. Her work was published mainly in Harper's Bazaar from 1950 to 1965.

Vintage Vibes ~ 202 Magazine July 2012

Photos by Tony Marinella
Styling by Darlene Washinton-Conant (she's awesome! thanks so much)
Hair & Makeup by Dolce Salon
Clothing from Buffaloe Exchange, Ivy Boutique and LollyPOP Vintage!
Photos taken at Hotel Palomar

Marillyn Monroe ~

I, much like half the world have always loved Marilyn. I don't know what it is about her....

Tarah in LollyPOP Vintage

Model: Tarah McDaniel 
Photos: Bryan Babich 
Wardrobe: LollyPOP Vintage